SUNdeVICH: A Bright Spot In a Dark Alley
SUNdeVICH is located in a garage off 9th Street NW in Shaw. (Ashley Lusk)
From Ashley Lusk. Check out Ashley’s blog Metropoetrylis and find her on Twitter at @arlusk. You can email her at [email protected].
A few weeks ago we told you about Seasonal Pantry. If you don’t have the money to drop on a few courses at their supper party, you can still get a taste of the Ali Bagheri and Daniel O’Brien brand. Just around the corner from Seasonal Pantry, in a garage off 1314 9th Street NW is the SUNdeVICH sandwich shop.
Plenty of sandwiches on the menu. (Ashley Lusk)
The shop features eleven sandwiches with Mediterranean and Persian flavors, including three vegetarian options. The best-selling sandwich is the Beirut, a hefty serving of skirt steak, hummus, brined vegetables and fresh herbs on a baguette.
During my visit to SUNdeVICH, I tried the Isfahan, a soufflé of spinach, mushroom, walnut and barberry — a sandwich with a surprisingly salty kick. All of the sandwiches at SUNdeVICH are served on baguettes, which have received some fair criticism on Yelp. When I tried the sandwich, my baguette was appropriately chewy, if not a little bland.
Bagheri has launched an interesting series of sides, which include homemade hummus, cold lentil salad and a curry potato salad. You can also try their spicy slaw or tzatiki with a baguette. Most 10-inch sandwiches range between $9 and $11, and most sides are around $3.50.
The appeal of SUNdeVICH is not only its accomplished chefs, but also the pure intrigue of a hidden restaurant in the heart of Shaw. The interior is sparse, but well-lit and welcoming. This is not a coffeeshop, you won’t find any Wi-Fi here, but it’s a good place to find a decent sandwich.
