Matzah Ball Secrets: Don’t Fear the Schmaltz

by March 19, 2013 at 12:00 pm 3 Comments


Making matzah nalls. (Maggie Barron)

From Maggie Barron. You can reach her at maggie[AT] and follow her on Twitter @rookerysf.

It’s really hard to take an appetizing photo of a matzah ball.

Maybe that’s because the better a matzah ball tastes, the worse it photographs. Light, fluffy matzah balls are uneven and lumpy-looking. Smooth, spherical ones may look nice, but they have a taste and texture that give matzah balls a bad name.

I didn’t realize I had such strong opinions on the topic, but in writing this post, I learned that my family’s matzah ball technique (circa 1950, Springfield, NJ) contradicts the instructions in many recipes, including from some of New York’s famous delis. Therein lies its strength.

In fact, when I look at other recipes, I feel like I am not even making the same dish. Your matzah ball should never sink. They don’t need oil. They don’t need seltzer. (I don’t think seltzer fizz does anything to make them lighter — it’s basically just adding water.) They don’t need baking powder. (This would count as leavening, and so couldn’t be used at Passover, no?)

Most importantly, they are not difficult and should not be cause for stress, failure or familial kvetching (leave that to the other aspects of Passover).

Matzah Ball Tips

Good matzah balls are actually pretty simple as long as you remember the following:

  • Separate your eggs and beat the whites separately. This will get the egg whites really fluffy and create light, airy matzah balls (no seltzer or leavening necessary).
  • Don’t smush! Use the lightest touch you can to mix and mold the matzah balls, to preserve as many air bubbles as possible.
  • There is no substitute for schmaltz. Yes, that’s rendered chicken fat. If you make your matzah balls with chicken fat rather than oil, they will be far and above any you have ever tasted.

Fortunately getting schmaltz isn’t so hard. If you’re making matzah balls, you’re most likely making chicken stock, too. Just scrape off the fat that rises to the surface of the stock (you’ll see an obvious layer of it after refrigerating the broth overnight — it becomes solid when it’s cold). Ta da. You can also render your own from chicken pieces, but the stock route is easier and, well, more appetizing.

Making Matzah Balls


This recipe makes about 8 matzah balls. 

  • 4 fresh eggs, carefully separated. Bring them to room temperature ahead of time for fluffier egg whites.
  • 1 teaspoon kosher (or other coarse) salt
  • Dash of pepper
  • 2 teaspoons grated onion (about 1/2 an onion)
  • 2 tablespoons chicken fat (schmaltz)
  • 3/4 cup matzah meal (you can buy it or make your own by finely grinding matzah in a food processor)


  1. If you’re making your own matzah meal, finely grind matzah (I used about 4 pieces) in a food processor. I had been buying matzah and matzah meal separately for years — who knew that they are the exact same thing? Measure the meal to make sure you have the right amount (3/4 cup).
  2. Combine egg yolks, salt, pepper, onion and schmaltz in a medium bowl. Set aside.
  3. In a separate bowl, beat egg whites until stiff peaks form. Don’t overdo it or the whites will start to look dry and break apart, and they’ll eventually deflate.
  4. A little bit at a time, alternate adding the matzah meal and the egg whites to the egg yolk mixture. Start by adding some matzah meal. Fold in with a spatula. Add some egg whites. Fold. Repeat until all the ingredients are combined, ending with egg whites. Important: It is important to do this with the least amount of stirring and smushing as you can, so that you keep the fluffiness of the egg whites.
  5. As you do this, you are going to think, “Wow, this is not working. These are never going to combine.” But eventually they do. You are not going to end up with a homogenous, smooth mixture. That’s good. You just want to make sure you don’t have dry spots of matzah meal or large clouds of egg white left.
  6. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 1 hour.
  7. Bring your chicken stock to a gentle boil. Use a large pot as the matzah balls need room to expand while they cook.
  8. Wet your fingers and gently shape a golf-ball sized portion of batter. You do not need to pack it tightly — it will hold together in the broth on its own. You’re not going for perfection here. Remember, photogenic = bad. Just loosely form the ball and wet your fingers again if it starts to stick to your hands.
  9. Gently drop the ball into the boiling broth, then repeat step seven and eight with the remaining batter. If you’ve done your job right so far, the ball should float. If it sinks, it may be that you have mixed your batter too much and deflated the egg whites. If this happens, don’t despair. They will still taste delicious, even if they are not as fluffy as you would like.
  10. As they boil, resist the urge to stir or poke them for the first couple of minutes. Poking them too soon will cause them to break apart. Just let them bob around and do their thing until they solidify a bit.
  11. After two minutes or so, start to gently turn them with a wooden spoon every couple of minutes to keep them moving. Let them boil for about 20 minutes.
  12. At this point they are ready to serve, or you can store them in the chicken broth and reheat to serve whenever you are ready.

Serve at Passover, or any other time that calls for comfort food. Bask in the glory of a matzah ball well done.

This post first appeared in rookery

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